Rib stitches are commonly used in knitting to add stretch and to stop rolling edges, but also because they are aesthetically pleasing. The variation of ribbing knit stitch patterns is vast.
The standard ribbings use alternating knit columns and purl stitches, creating vertical textured stripes. The width of the stripes can vary from one stitch up to several stitches. The purl stitches make the canvas and the knit stitches pop out.
So, the base of rib stitches is the columns of knit and purls. When you want to add some more pizzaz to your ribbing it’s time to put slipped stitches, increases, and decreases to work.
Below follows 13 different ways to knit ribbing, starting with the basic ones and working our way down to the little more intricate ones. But don’t worry, intricate doesn’t need to be difficult!
Add edge stitches for neater edges
All the swatches, or rather the one superlong swatch, I made for this post is made with two edge stitches, one on each side.
These extra stitches are not included in the stitch count given for the stitch patterns. If you want to use them like I did this is how to do it:
- Add two extra stitches to your cast on, one for each side.
- At the beginning of all rows, before you start the stitch pattern: slip 1 stitch as if you should purl it while holding the yarn behind the work.
- At the end of all rows, after finishing the stitch pattern: purl the last stitch.
If neat edges are something you would wan’t to know more about, this post is for you!
Knits & purls only-ribbings
Ribbings using only knits and purls are the traditional ribbings you’re used to seeing on hat brims, sweater cuffs, and sock legs. But they can also be used to knit whole beanies, sweaters, skirts, or anything that you would like to have a fitted look.
These ribbing stitch patterns are the easiest, cleanest, and most used ones. They are beautiful in their simplicity!
If you’re here for the more detailed stuff, keep scrolling. You will find mock cable ribbings, ribbings with slipped stitches, and at the end my favorite rib stitch with puffy hearts!
1+1 ribbing (1 purl + 1 knit)
1+1 ribbing, aka single ribbing, is the easiest ribbing possible to knit and it has a good amount of stretch. This is one of my favorites because it looks almost like a stockinette stitch but it doesn’t curl at the edges.
It’s a perfect stitch pattern for scarves as well as for adding discrete ribbing to garments knit in stockinette stitch.
Cast on: an even number of stitches.
Pattern row: *p1, k1*, repeat *–* to the end of the row.
Repeat the pattern row for as many rows as you need.
2+2 ribbing (2 purls + 2 knits)
2+2 ribbing is a classic ribbing for socks, hats, and sweaters. I imagine this is what many of you think of when I say ribbing!
This ribbing looks neat and after a lot of pulling on my swatches, I think this one has just about as much stretch as the 1+1 ribbing.
Cast on: in multiples of four. (4, 8, 12, etc)
Pattern row: *p2, k2*, repeat *–* to the end of the row.
Repeat the pattern row for as many rows as you need.
More about ribbing!
––> Basic ribbings + video tutorial on casting on, knit ribbing, and binding off
––> 5 tips for neater ribbing
––> Free Pattern + video tutorial: Perfect Ribbed Beanie
2+3 ribbing
2+3 ribbing is a pretty but a little less elastic alternative, this one looks different on the right and wrong sides.
It looks great together with the stockinette stitch. It’s also a tiny bit more difficult to make than the 1+1 and 2+2 ribbings because there are two pattern rows to keep track of.
Cast on: in multiples of 5+2 stitches. (7, 12, 17, etc)
Row 1: p2, *k3, p2* repeat *–* to the end of the row.
Row 2: k2, *p3, k2* repeat *–* to the end of the row.
Repeat rows 1 and 2 for as many rows as you need.
Broken rib stitch
With only two pattern rows to memorize, one of them being only knit stitches, this is a good stitch for beginners wanting to do something more than garter and stockinette stitch. Or a relaxing knit for the little more experienced knitter. This stitch is super easy and super pretty!
Broken rib stitch looks great on both smaller and larger areas and can be added to almost anything. Use it for a whole garment or home decor items like towels, blankets, and washcloths.
It is worth knowing that this stitch is elastic but not reversible, though it looks pretty on both sides. While the right side has columns of knit stitches the wrong side looks a bit like crochet.
You find the pattern instructions + a video tutorial on this stitch in this post: Broken rib stitch
Mistake rib
This knit ribbing stitch variation is fun. It’s a 2+2 ribbing with a twist (mistake) that shifts the pattern one stitch on every row creating a new exciting look! One thing to keep in mind is that despite its name this stitch pattern isn’t very stretchy.
I like to use this pattern for dishcloths, but it’s also good for knitting blankets, towels, and edges.
Mistake rib is reversible and it doesn’t curl, another advantage is that it’s super easy to do and a good beginner stitch pattern! You find the pattern and a video tutorial in this post: Mistake rib knit pattern
Diagonal ribbing
Diagonal ribbing is a fun stitch that looks great on blankets, washcloths, and towels. It’s not super stretchy as the columns travel diagonally over the fabric, and it has a pretty side and a not-as-pretty side.
This stitch pattern has a lot of pattern rows, but don’t let that scare you off! It’s just knits and purls and you will soon be able to see what to do next just by looking at your knitting.
If you prefer a similar pattern with fewer rows you should try this 4-row repeat: Diagonal stripes ribbing
Cast on: in multiples of 5 (5, 10, 15, etc)
Row 1: *p2, k3*, repeat *_* across row
Row 2: p2 *k2, p3*, repeat *–* across row, k2, p1
Row 3: k2 *p2, k3*, repeat *–* across row, p2, k1
Row 4: *k2, p3*, repeat *–* across row
Row 5: p1 *k3, p2*, repeat *–* across row, k3, p1
Row 6: *p3, k2*, repeat *–* across row, k3, p1
Row 7: k1 *p2, k3*, repeat *–* across row, p2, k2
Row 8: p1 *k2, p3*, repeat *–* across row, k2, p2
Row 9: *k3, p2*, repeat *–* across row
Row 10: k1 *p3, k2*, repeat *–* across row, p3, k1
Mock cable ribbings
Mock cables, or faux cables, are stitch patterns that look like cables but are designed with increases and decreases rather than using a cable needle to switch places of stitches.
Mock cables look intricate but are much easier to pull off than you might think!
More about mock cables: Knitting mock cable stitch patterns
Cable ribbing with right and left twist
This mock cable ribbing can be done two ways, with the cables twisting to the right or left.
Abbreviations:
rt = Right twist. Knit the second stitch on the left needle while the first stitch still remains on the needle. Then knit the first stitch and let both stitches slide off the needle.
lt = Left twist. Knit the second stitch on the left needle through the back loop while the first stitch remains on the needle, then knit the first stitch and let both stitches slip off the needle.
With the cables twisted to the right
Cast on: in multiples of 4+2 (6, 10, 14, etc)
Row 1: p2, *k2, p2*, repeat *–* across row
Row 2: k2, *p2, k2*, repeat *–* across row
Row 3: p2, *rt, p2*, repeat *–* across row
Row 4: k2, *p2, k2*, repeat *–* across row
With the cables twisted to the left
Row 1: p2, *k2, p2*, repeat *–* across row
Row 2: k2, *p2, k2*, repeat *–* across row
Row 3: p2, *lt, p2*, repeat *–* across row
Row 4: k2, *p2, k2*, repeat *–* across row
Spiral cable ribbing
This mock cable ribbing is almost the same as the one above except that the twists are done on all right side rows.
Abbreviations:
rt = Right twist. Knit the second stitch on the left needle while the first stitch still remains on the needle. Then knit the first stitch and let both stitches slide of the needle.
lt = Left twist. Knit the second stitch on the left needle trough the back loop while the first stitch remains on the needle, then knit the first stitch and let both stitches slip of the needle.
Cast on: in multiples of 4+2 (6, 10, 14 etc)
Twisting to the right
Row 1(WS): k2, *p2, k2*, repeat *–* across row
Row 2: p2, *rt, p2*, repeat *–* across row
Repeat the two rows for as long as needed
Twisting to the left
Row 1(WS): k2, *p2, k2*, repeat *–* across row
Row 2: p2, *lt, p2*, repeat *–* across row
Repeat the two rows for as long as needed.
Wide spirals ribbing knit stitch
Cast on: in multiples of 6+2 stitches (8, 14, 20, etc)
Row 1 (WS): k2, *p4, k2*, repeat *–* across row
Row 2: p2, *(k2tog but let the stitches remain on the left needle. Knit the first stitch one more time and let the stitches slide of the needle) twice, p2*, repeat *–* across row
Row 3: k2,*p4, k2*, repeat *–* across row
Row 4: p2, *k1, k2tog and knit 1st st again as you did on row 2, k1, p2*, repeat *–* across row
Repeat the rows for as long as needed.
Cable ribbing with holes
When my daughter was little I made her a cardigan knit entirely in this stitch, it looked super cute and impressed a lot of moms at the park. The best thing? It wasn’t nearly as hard to make as it looked!
I put this pattern last of the cable ribbings and right before the slip stitch ribbings because it’s a cable ribbing that also uses slipped stitches.
Abbreviations:
YO = yarn over
sl1 wyib = slip 1 stitch purlwise with yarn in back
psso = pass slipped stitch over
Cast on: in multiples of 4+2 (6, 10, 14, etc)
Row 1 (ws): k2 *p2, k2*, repeat *–* across row
Row 2: p2, *k1, YO, k1, p2*, repeat *–* across row,
Row 3: k2 *p3, k2*, repeat *–* across row,
Row 4: p2, *slip 1 pw wyib, k2, psso, p2*, repeat *–* across row
Repeat row 1–4 for as long as you need.
Slip stitch ribbing
Knitting with slipped stitches is an easy and fun way to add variation and texture to knitting stitch patterns.
If you’re new to slipped stitches and feel a bit more guidance is in place I have this post about knitting with slipped stitches that explains the basics.
Ribbing with slipped stitches
This ribbing is super easy to do, it’s essentially a regular 2+3 ribbing but with a little detail added by slipping the middle stitch on all right side rows.
The slipped stitch creates a slightly raised column of knit stitches adding some texture to the plain ribbing.
Abbreviations:
sl1 = slip one stitch purlwise (as if to make a purl stitch) with the yarn in back of the work.
Cast on: in multiples of 5+2 stitches (7, 12, 17 etc)
Row 1: p2, *k1, sl1, k1, p2*, repeat *–* across row
Row 2: k2, *p3, k2* repeat *–* across row
Woven ribbing with slipped stitches
In this ribbing the stitches are slipped with the yarn at the right side of the work, creating a woven effect on top of the knit stitch columns.
Abbreviations:
sl1 = slip one stitch purlwise, as if to make a purl stitch
wyif = with yarn in front
Cast on: in multiples of 6+3 stitches (9, 15, 21 etc)
Row 1: p3, *sl1 wyif, k1, sl1 wyif, p3*, repeat *–* across row
Row 2: k3, *p3, k3*, repeat *–* across row
Row 3: p3 *k1, sl1 wyif, k1, p3*, repeat *–* across row
Row 4: k3, *p3, k3*, repeat *–* across row
Heart ribbing
I just love this stitch pattern, it’s beautiful, fun to knit, and comes out super squishy.
I know it looks super complicated… it is the most complicated of these ribbing stitch patterns. But it is doable and I’m confident that you can pull this off once you get the hang of the technique!
- I have a post with a video tutorial showing all the steps, you find it here!
- If you want to knit this stitch in the round, here’s a post and video on that too.
Abbreviations:
wyif = with yarn in front (of the work)
wyib = with yarn in back (of the work)
Cast on: in multiples of 5+2 stitches (7, 12, 17, etc)
Foundation: To make this stitch we need 4 rows of ribbing to build upon. This is done by knitting foundation rows 1&2 twice before getting into the pattern
Foundation row 1: p2 *k3, p2, * repeat *–* until the end of the row
Foundation row 2: k2 *p3, k2* repeat *–* until the end of the row
Now you have 4 rows of ribbing and we can start the actual stitch pattern.
Row 1: p2, *pull up a loop through the knit stitch in the middle, four rows down, k3, pull up a loop through the same stitch once more, p2* repeat *–* until the end of the row
Row 2: k2 *slip the loop wyif, p3, slip the loop wyif, k2* repeat *–* until the end of the row
Row 3: p2 *slip the loop wyib, k1, pass the slipped loop over, k1, knit the next stitch together with the loop, p2* repeat *–* until the end of the row
Row 4: k2 *p3, k2* repeat *–* until the end of the row
Keep repeating for as long as needed.
